AHAMO ARCHERY CLUB September 14, 2002 September 2002 Newsletter CLUB OFFICERS President: Jim Chandler (537-8058) Vice President: Bill Lewis (498-9364) Secretary: Dave Wise (498-0186) Treasurer: Dave Holthouse (291-0211) Trustees: Bill Rhoades (932-0417) Ed Rebarich (345-7608) Sergeant at Arms: Greg Thomas (625-2697) News Editor: Lee Pereksta (592-3856) 3D Coordinator: Mike Vandeman (332-4625) Indoor range phone (734-7272)
Key Dates to Remember
September 15 Opening of deer season September 24 Begin Tuesday night indoor leagues Note, warm up night Sept 17 October 7 7:00 Club meeting,indoor range November 16,17 Ahamo Indoor 300 round **Changed from Nov 9,10
September Club Meeting
The September meeting was attended by 12 members. We discussed a proposal for next year's 3D workparty support, changing the November shoot date, and purchasing new targets. Four new members were voted in at the meeting... two during the meeting, and one by the board after the meeting for someone that came late to the meeting.
New Members
We have 4 new memberships in our club, Robby and Sandy Valeika, Greg and Julie Smith, Cal Smith, and Joe and Angela Swanson. Welcome to the Ahamo Archery Club.
Leagues
Indoor leagues will start on September 24th. We are planning a warm up night on September 17th for anyone that would like to check out their sights and do a little practicing before leagues do start. Leagues will consist of a 300 round and will start at 7:00.
3D News
Mike Vandeman presented a proposal at the club meeting for handling the 3D shoots next year. The following is his proposal. If anyone has any other recommendations, or comments on Mike’s proposal please be at the next club meeting.
Proposal:
Since the schedule comes out Months before any of the outdoor shoots I don’t think this should be a problem. Registration and cooking are the 2 positions that we need the most help with. These are 2 very easy positions and you don’t even need leave your chair if you don’t want too; no walking of the hills, no sweating, no carrying heavy targets etc... etc. You would only need to collect money, cook a little food, do some paperwork, and smile and greet the archers. Training would be available if needed.
I (Mike), would like to stay on as 3D coordinator, and John Terfone would stay as food coordinator. John would take care of purchasing the food and soda, and I would bring out the paperwork. We would also be there for moral support if needed. If you could get someone to help you that day, your job would be much easier; but that part of the shoot would be yours to run. Those working registration and food would not need to participate in set up or tear down, Food and registration would be your involvement for the shoot.
Those volunteering to run food or registration would not need to do every shoot. We have 4 or 5 outdoor shoots and a couple of indoor shoots that are even easier to run. We would like to have volunteers that would only work one or two shoots.
There are also some other duties that I feel need to be addressed. These are solicitation prizes for the last 2 day shoot, and advertising for all the shoots - which includes making sure fliers are up in all the shops through the summer.
Aside from the first shoot and the last shoot when we take all the targets out and then in, I feel 4 to 6 people could set up the course at each shoot very easily. Anymore than that is too many - especially at the indoor shoots. Those 4 to 6 people need to be different at each shoot so we don’t have burned out members. We have enough membership that rotation would not be a problem.
We need to start functioning as a club again like when I started over 5 years ago - or I think we will be closing the doors, and soon. I think if we get back into the club and start putting on quality shoots again we could also cut down on the number of shoots we have. The end results would be less work for everyone, more fun for everyone, and a better turn out at the shoots. Looks like a no brainer to me, but I need your help if you want your club to stay afloat.
Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
Shoot Date Changed
Please note that the November shoot date has changed from November 9,10 to November 16,17.
The date on our Ahamo schedule cards shows November 9,10 - so pencil in the change and make the change on your calendar if it’s there.
The reason for the change is that when the schedule was set, we had assumed that rifle season would be starting November 9th. However, Game and Parks set the rifle season to start on the 16th this year. In order to not compete with the last weekend of archery season, it was decided that we would change our indoor shoot date.
Newsletter Items
If you are a club member and have an item for sale, send me the information to put in the newsletter. Also, if you have an interesting deer story or any archery tips you would like to share with club members please send them to me for the newsletter.
My Email address is: hunterlee@MSN.com
Deer Season is here
The start of deer season is now here. Good luck to all hunters. As you head into the deer woods, be sure to pay attention to your personal safety and the safety of your hunting companions.
Bowhunter Education classes stress safety and I thought now would be the perfect time to put a summary of the key safety rules in the newsletter. Please pay attention to the following:
1. Be sure someone knows where you are hunting, and knows what to do if you do not return by a specific time. Leave directions to your hunting area, and phone numbers to call if needed.
2. Wear your safety belt or harness. Most accidents during bowhunting are the result of falls. Bowhunter education classes stress that harnesses are more effective than belts and recommend you use a climbing harness from the moment your feet leave the ground.
3. Use your flashlight when going too and returning from your stand in all low light conditions. Two years ago a hunter in Nebraska was shot by accident. Be sure you are visible to others so that you are not mistaken for a deer.
4. Be careful when handling broadheads. Tighten them only with a broadhead wrench, and keep them in your quiver until you are in your stand or are ready to shoot while stalking. You should not walk or stalk with an arrow loaded in your bow.
5. Check your stand for loose nuts and bolts, and check the condition of your stand’s chain of rope. You will be 10 to 20 feet off the ground as you step onto your stand (with your safety harness on - right!), and you want it to be solid.
6. Do not hunt from home made stands. The National Bowhunter Education Foundation stresses this because wooden stands can rot, or they will have nails and screws that will come loose. Also, it is difficult to build stands as safe as those made by commercial stand companies due to the engineering that goes into them and the safety requirements they follow.
7. Do not overexert yourself. As hunters get older, overexertion and heart attacks are more apt to happen. Hunters that at one time could drag their deer long distances, may feel they can still do the same thing even though they are older and not in the shape they were once in. Rest often, and get help when it is appropriate to do so. You might even want to invest in a deer cart to help get your deer out of the woods.
8. Be aware of the symptoms of hyperthermia. Shivering is the first of these. Hyperthermia is when your body temperature is lower than your normal temperature and it cannot bring itself back to normal. You will shiver more and more, and will get sleepy as it sets in. If you suspect hyperthermia it is time to quit hunting and get someplace where you can get warm.
9. Check your equipment. Check your bow limbs for cracks, check your strings and cables for wear and fraying, and replace your strings every 2 to 3 years. In addition, you should check your arrows for cracks, and your safety belt or harness for wear.
10. Use a haul line. Never climb a tree or ladder with your bow or with any other item in your hand. In addition, do not climb a tree with your pack on.
11. Carry a first aid kit with you when you hunt. It could be as simple as bandages and tape, or a much more elaborate kit. The bottom line is to be prepared so that you can react with the proper equipment when necessary.
12. Think ahead and be sure to carry the items you will need at the appropriate time. A list of some of these include; extra flashlights, extra batteries, a compass, a whistle, your cell phone, your permit, and your habitat stamp. Be sure that your permit and habitat stamp are signed.
Field Dressing Your Deer:
In 30 plus years of hunting I’ve watched quite a few people field dress their animals and have dressed over 50 deer myself. There are several techniques that can be followed and the best is always what works for you. The following is the method I use.
1. Field dressing kit.
All you really need is a sharp knife, but there are some things that you may also want on hand. My kit consists of a small knife, a small towel, several paper towels, a small saw, some water, rope, string to attach the tag, and a plastic bag for the heart. I also carry a small bottle of water with a little vinegar to help wash out the blood when I’m through.
Note that your knife does not need to be big. When I first started hunting I used a large buck knife with a 6 inch blade. That was much too large. Most hunters use a folding knife with a 3 inch locking blade. I now use a very small buck knife with only a 2 inch blade. I once watched someone use the blade of a Gerber tool to field dress a deer. The key is that it must be very sharp.
2. Preparing to field dress your deer
Be certain your broadhead is not inside the body cavity. Make every effort to find your arrow. If you can’t locate the broadhead, check to see if there is an entry and an exit point in the carcass. If you are not certain where the broadhead is, open the deer up carefully during the field dressing process and use an arrow without a broadhead to poke around inside the cavity to try locate the broadhead.
3. Tag your animal first
this is the law, and I always do this right away. With the new paper tags, you will at least need to punch your holes indicating the date of the kill. Next, drag the deer to where you want to field dress it. I always look for a flat area with two small trees on each side of the deer. I also lay my towel next to the deer and lay out everything I will be using, on or next to the towel.
4. Make your first cut
Cut around the anus. Pull it out a little and cut around it as you pull it out. It is much easier to cut around the anus while the deer is on its side, before you spread its back legs out. I cut in about 3 inches or so deep.
5. Spread out the hind legs
I use two pieces of rope to spread the legs out, stretching them out between two small trees. You can also have someone hold them apart.
6. Begin cutting at the breastbone.
I pull up on the hair and cut into the hide right at the breastbone. Once started, I cut into the hide (including the belly muscle), insert two fingers and pull up as I cut.
Keep pulling and cutting until you get to the sex organs. Pull up on these and cut around them. There is a long tube running from the sex organs to the anus on a buck. Cut into the meat and along side of this as you pull up on it. When I get to the anus, I cut this off and toss it aside. On a doe, you should cut around the udders just in case there is milk present.
7. Cut through the Pelvic bone with your saw
This is not necessary. Some people cut deeper than I do when cutting around the anus, and pull the anus back out from the inside. In fact, per Game and Parks, this is the preferred method - especially in areas that may have Chronic Wasting Disease. I prefer to split the bone. I cut through the meat straight down to the bone with my knife, then use my saw to cut through the pelvic bone. When I am almost all of the way through, I lean on each side of the back legs to pop the bone open.
8. Cut through the diaphragm
The diaphragm is a thin piece of tissue separating the stomach and chest cavity. To get to the heart and lungs you must cut through this tissue. I cut around the entire cavity, through the diaphragm. I also pull the stomach to one side, then the other while cutting through whatever tissue is attached between the stomach and the body cavity. This will make it easier to pull out the stomach.
9. Pull everything out of the body cavity
To do this, some people split the breast bone first. Some use their knives for this, which can be very dangerous. It is very easy to have a knife slip and cut yourself or someone else while cutting through the breast bone. If you want to split the breast bone, cut through the hide first, then use a saw to cut the bone.
I leave the bone in-tact and reach in up to my elbows. Keeping the knife in one hand, reach in with your knife hand ahead of the other, and reach in until your trailing hand can grasp the wind pipe as far in as possible. Cut through it with your knife, and carefully pull your knife out turning it away from your hand that is inside the deer. Toss the knife onto your towel and reach back in to pull the wind pipe. At this point, everything should pull out, all the way and over the back legs.
10. Final steps
After pulling everything out, I always hang my deer in a tree and spread the legs to let it drain. I have a rope and pulley system I use for this, but you can pull it up without pulley’s or elevate it a little on a log or hill. The important thing is to drain the blood out as best as you can. I also wipe the carcass as clean as I can with paper towels and also use a vinegar and water wash to help cut through the blood and clean it out a little better. Clean it as well as possible and let it hang until you’re ready to start dragging.
If you leave your deer while you carry your equipment out, note that Nebraska requires that you roll your tag up and tie it to the inside of the deer’s ear.
Be sure to clean up your paper towels, and to cut out and save the heart. If you don’t like the heart, you’re missing out on a treat. My wife makes a great pate with my deer heart that is always a hit over the holidays.
Deer Awards
Like Ahamo has done in previous years, we will be giving out deer awards at our annual banquet in January. There is a plaque given as the first award for successful hunters, and each year thereafter, we give out plates to attach to the plaques.
Be sure to contact me when you harvest your deer this year so I can keep a log of all successes and publish the hunting results in the newsletter. Call me at 592-3856 or email me at hunterlee@msn.com.
In addition, Ahamo will again give out a big buck award. The award is given to the person with the largest rack shot this year. I can measure your rack for club awards at a club meeting, or we can make arrangements to get together at the range another time to measure it.
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